Men’s Style: Rugged vs. Refined

The way you choose to dress gives someone looking at you a sneak peek into who you are without you saying a word. It’s your personality, shown visually. This is what people refer to as your “style”

There are a lot of different styles of clothing out there. We hear terms like “preppy” or “classic” or even “gothic,” and they all conjure up a different idea of what that looks like.

But after ten years of personal styling men, I’ve come to realize that most style lives under two umbrella terms: Rugged or Refined.

If you just learn these two terms, you’ll be able to pair outfits easily, and you’ll then be able to select clothing that gives you a look you love. 

First, understand there’s no “right” style, despite what influencers tell you. Rugged or Refined, there’s only a style that’s correct for you and how you want to appear in the world. Second, both Rugged and Refined can look masculine and stylish. It’s just the subtle details that change the way they’re perceived.

And of course, all of this sits on a continuum. You’ll have items that are extremely polished on one end, and on the other, items that are basically destroyed, and then everything in between. Most guys aren’t 100% one way or the other, but you’ll almost always have one way you lean. Once you figure it out, you’ll want to keep the majority of your closet in that style so that everything pairs together well. 

A quick way to tell which way you lean:

• Do you like clothing that looks crisp and clean, or worn-in and tough?
  

• Do you prefer smooth, solid pieces, or texture and grit?
  

• Do you naturally gravitate toward sleek shoes, or heavier boots?
  

Let’s define them, then we’ll figure out which style you prefer, and finally I’ll show you how to use this to put together outfits:

Rugged

Rugged describes items that look like they could stand up to real-world use. The items look like they’ve been through some stuff. It could be natural wear and tear, sun fading, or just a fabric that can stand up to the elements. More texture. More “grittiness.” More utility. Things ranging from just a little fade to “woah that thing has gone to hell and back.”

Typically, we’re looking at fabrics that are heavier or more durable. Think denim, waxed cotton, leather, flannel, canvas, etc.

Key rugged signals:

• Matte finishes
  

• Visible texture
  

• Fading, patina, or distressing
  

• Heavier fabrics
  

• Utility details and hardware
  

You’ll see things like visible stitching and reinforced seams, patch pockets, hardware like rivets and zippers, and a worn or faded appearance to most items. It’s like the items appear “old” or “vintage” even if they’re brand new. Picture items you might find in workwear or military-inspired gear.

This style suits the outdoorsy gent. The rocker. The motorcycle man. The coastal guy. Someone who spends time working with their hands, or at least wants to look like he could.

Here’s a small smattering of items you’d find underneath the rugged banner.

Refined

Refined is smooth, solid, precise, and clean. It’s what people commonly refer to as a tailored look. The opposite of rugged.

These are items that have no fading or distressing, and instead look fresh and crisp. The items have very little texture, if any, and are usually done in solid colors with minimal patterns.

Key refined signals:

• Smooth finishes
  

• Clean, sharp lines
  

• Minimal hardware
  

• Little to no texture
  

• Crisp, “new” appearance
  

These are the types of items that would never see outdoor use. They’re not meant to, and the fabric simply couldn’t hold up to the job, and that’s the point.

Refined style is meant for indoor use. This is why in formal attire, you almost always find dress clothes made from fabrics falling under the refined banner. There’s no need to wear workwear in those settings.

This style suits the classy gent. The thinker. The CEO. The man who loves luxury and wants to signal a crisp, clean appearance.

For fabrics, we’re looking at fine wools like merino and cashmere, silks, and smooth cotton. If using leather or denim, there’s a level of sheen to those items. You won’t see them faded, distressed, or worn. Everything looks “new” and “fresh.”

Here are some examples of refined style.

The Most Important Thing

The one rule of pairing that will make all your outfits work:

Do not mix Rugged and Refined. This is the quickest way to make your outfit appear disjointed.

If your outfits feel off, a lot of times this is the problem. You’re pairing one rugged item with another item that’s more refined.

In order to create a cohesive outfit, pair rugged with rugged and refined with refined. It’s why lug-soled boots look great with jeans, and why a shiny cap-toe oxford looks great with worsted wool dress trousers. They share the same style, so the outfit flows.

Remember, no style is better than another. You might personally gravitate toward one, but both can look great. The point is that when pairing outfits, stick with one style. This creates a cohesive look and feel and makes sure everything works.

To make your life simpler, decide which style you want to lean toward more often and then buy most of your clothing in that style.

This makes it so your whole wardrobe pairs seamlessly together, and you spend a lot less time trying to figure out what to wear.

And that’s one of the things I help you with inside our personal styling service. I’ll show you what looks best on you, and then get you the clothing that does it, personalized to your style, colors, body type, and budget.

You’ll work with me 1-on-1. If you want to see the specifics, check out what it’s like to work together virtually here or in-person here. No more guesswork, or wasted time and money shopping.

You can apply for a call with me here if you want to see if I can help you.

Hope that helps.

Patrick