HOW TO BUILD A CORE WARDROBE FOR MEN: JACKETS

This is part two of a series on what to put in your closet. I get a lot of questions about "capsule" or "core" wardrobes. While everyone needs different things, there are some staples you should have in your closet. Today, we're going to discuss jackets and the types you want to have in your closet.

DENIM TRUCKER

When we think of a typical denim jacket, what you are usually thinking of is a type of jacket known as a "trucker" that is made from denim, but you'll often see them made in corduroy or suede as well. They're a bit shorter cut, they tend to be boxy, and the sleeves run a bit longer - it's just the style of the jacket. So, it's common to tailor it, or find something that fits you decently well off that rack.

What I dig about these jackets is that they're really bad at being jackets - They suck at keeping you warm. Denim just isn't good at that. This means that they make wonderful year-round jackets and can be layered with a tee in warmer weather or a sweater in cooler weather. This is probably my most worn type of jacket.

My go-to has always been this on from Polo RL. I've had it for years, and it fits me well. A similar one can be found here from Mavi - they're known for their stretch denim, and this guy is no exception. If you need something on the low end of the price point range, Zara is fine. For the higher end, it's hard to beat this jacket from Tom Ford.

LEATHER JACKET

This is a thing you should spend some money on. Good leather costs money, and this is a piece that could be with you for many, many years if you buy it right. There are many styles of leather jackets, and, to complicate it further, there are many different types of leather as well, so this is a broad category.

If you want something more classic, I'd opt for a "racer" style. If you want something with a bit more edge, I'd go for a "biker" style. For you younger, more streetwear-oriented cats, a "bomber" style would suit you well. For what it's worth, I own all three in different types of leather - having diversity helps.

When you buy leather, make sure it's a touch on the tight side - it will only get looser over time.

I'd start at Allsaints, Schott, and The Real McCoys. The Jacket Maker is cool because you can get somewhat custom with it. If you're leaner, more fashion-forwarded, and can spend the money, get into leather from YSL or Rick Owens, you'd be pleased.

Barring some environmental reasoning, please do not get faux leather. You (and I) will see the difference, especially over time.

TOPCOAT

A topcoat is something most guys consider more "formal". I would agree to a certain extent; they look great over a suit, but I also tone the formality down a bit when I wear mine, in a similar way I might wear a sportcoat - paired with nicer jeans or a nicer pair of wool flannel trousers.

Because this is something you'll typically wear in inclement weather, it's best to get this item in a darker color so you keep it from looking gross. It acts as a bit of a protective layer to what's underneath. Charcoal gray works best here, but feel free to play around with other colors like Navy, Olive, or even work in a light pattern if you want to be more creative.

Sid Mashburn or Drakes would be some top places to look. If you're looking for something more colorful and/or patterned, I would be looking at Suit Supply. On the low end, our basics hero Uniqlo has a couple of options.

FIELD / CHORE / SAFARI JACKET

All of these are very similar, in my opinion, which is why I've grouped them here. Many people just refer to these as "shirt jackets".

Think of these as a hefty overshirt, usually with multiple chest and waist pockets. These work great as travel jackets because of all the extra storage and because they're not too heavy, making them good to wear year-round.

These notoriously fit boxy, so I'd recommend taking them in on the sides through tailoring.

We'll start with this from Eton - who is typically known for their shirting. Then, I'd look at Drakes and Suit Supply again. Rowan and Spier and Mckay will offer some lower pricepoint ones as well.

SPORTCOAT

Finally, we'll end on a casual sportcoat. The idea here is something that you can dress it down a bit. Something you can wear with jeans and a nicer tee. Something that feels relaxed.

Most guys screw up a casual sportcoat look because they try to take a more formal-looking jacket from a suit and pair it with very casual jeans. The goal is to make sure the jacket doesn't look like it came from a suit.

You should look for patch pockets (pockets sew to the outside of the jacket), more of a natural, less padded shoulder, and work in a bit more color and pattern other than the classic charcoals and navys. Realize that you will likely need to get these tailored.

On the low end, start with Spier and Mckay, then explore Suit Supply's offerings. Going one step higher, we have Canali and then, finally, a great statement brand, Isaia. This really isn't an area you want to cheap out, so avoid fast fashion stores like Zara, H&M, etc. and spend a bit more. This is another item where you'll realize the difference quickly.

There are many, many different types of jackets out there, and a lot that I didn't cover here, but this is a good core setup.

Many factors will change what types of jackets you own, mainly your local weather conditions.

Jackets are an item that can instantly stylize what you're wearing by just adding some dimension to your outfit. They're that little cherry on top that you likely aren't using enough of. Lucky for you, we're in the perfect season for them.

If you want to learn how to dress yourself according to what works for your body, your colors, and your budget. chat with me here

- Patrick